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Egypt Practical Advice Food Drinks Weather
Weather in Egypt
Egyptian summers are hot and dry in
most of the country and humid in the Delta and along the Mediterranean Coast. In
recent years the humidity has spread to Cairo and the city swelters in August.
Winters are mild with some rain, but usually there are bright, sunny days and
cold nights. There is a short spring and autumn and during the 50 days (khamseen)
between the end of March and mid-May, dust storms can occur sporadically.
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Month
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Type
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Cairo
Min/Max
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Alexandria
Min/Max
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Luxor
Min/Max
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Aswan
Min/Max
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Jan
|
C
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9/19
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9/18
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6/23
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8/23
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Feb
|
10/21
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10/19
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7/25
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9/26
|
|
March
|
11/23
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11/21
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11/29
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12/30
|
|
April
|
14/28
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14/23
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15/35
|
17/36
|
|
May
|
17/32
|
15/26
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20/39
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21/38
|
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June
|
20/34
|
19/28
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22/41
|
24/42
|
|
July
|
22/35
|
22/29
|
23/41
|
25/42
|
|
August
|
22/35
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22/30
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24/41
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25/42
|
|
September
|
20/30
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21/29
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21/38
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22/39
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October
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18/28
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18/27
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17/35
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19/36
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November
|
12/24
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15/24
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12/29
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14/30
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December
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11/20
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11/20
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8/19
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9/20
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FOOD AND DRINK
In Egypt, dining out can range from stand-up sandwich bars to luxurious
five-course meals. You can find small, inexpensive establishments that serve
good Egyptian food for only a few pounds. If you're in a hurry, try the local
snack bars. While the cubbyholes off the street (which probably have running
water) are generally safe. The larger cities even have Western-style fast-food
chains like McDonald's and Kentucky Fried Chicken, but they're relatively
expensive. In cities both food and water are safe although the change in your
diet may produce short-term gastrointestinal upsets.
EGYPTIAN MEALS
Although Egyptian eating habits may seem erratic, most natives begin the day
with a light breakfast of beans (or bean cakes), eggs, and/or pickles, cheeses,
and jams. Most families eat their large, starchy lunch around 1400-1700 and
follow it with a siesta. They may take a British-style tea at 1700 or 1800 and
eat a light supper (often leftovers from lunch) late in the evening. Dinner
parties, however, are scheduled late, often no earlier than 2100, with the meal
served an hour or two later. In restaurants lunch is normally 1300-1600, dinner
2000-2400.
Restaurants
In Egypt, as in the rest of the world, restaurants are only as good as the
cooks they employ, and cooks seem to be continually changing. For current
information on the best restaurants, the expatriate community is unbeatable,
and the magazine Cairo Today includes monthly tips listing places to try, and
publishes an annual dining guide. Most establishments use native ingredients
and will offer fruits and vegetables in season. Menus are in both Arabic and
English except in Alexandria, where they are in Arabic and French. In large
restaurants, the maitre d'hotel will speak English, French, and possible
German, Italian, or Greek. These establishments serve a mixture of
international cuisine but often include Egyptian or Middle Eastern fare as well.
Most hotels also maintain 24-hour coffee shops. Many of the smaller,
Egyptian-style restaurants specialize in basic meat and fava-bean dishes. They
are simple and inexpensive. Waiters speak little English, so use your phrase
book.
Snack Bars
Throughout Egypt, little stand-up shops dispense the Egyptian version of the
fast food. Most of these shops in major cities are clean and offer quick,
inexpensive, and nutritious meals. Most shops have helpful staff, but during
their busy times you may have to push your way into the pack of Egyptians to
get waited on. You can buy roasted chickens that the shop will season for you.
You can also get shawirma (Gyros), lamb cooked on a vertical split, available
most of the day.
Egyptian Home Cooking
If you're lucky, you may be invited to dine in an Egyptian home. There are no
set times for dinner; often hours will depend upon your host's profession.
Although invitations may be issued for as late as 0100, generally if no time is
set, guests are expected between 2100-2200 hours. If you wish, you may bring
flowers, chocolates, or a bottle of wine (if you hosts drink--many Muslims do
not). You will be introduced to other guests and perhaps the host's entire
family, many of whom will not stay to eat.
Dining customs vary throughout the country, so try to follow examples set by
your host and any fellow guests. Depending upon the family's own customs and
the size of the party, men and women may split up for cocktails (nonalcoholic
drinks in strict Muslim homes) and then rejoin at the dinner table, where
seating is usually random. All the food is set in the middle of the table at
the beginning of the meal. If no silverware is provided, use your bread as a
combination fork and spoon. Guests
are not expected to clear their
plates, and you'll need to refuse more than once to convince your host that you
really can't eat anymore. Complimenting the hostess on her cooking skills as
well as (for women) asking her for recipes are in good taste and appreciated.
After dinner, guests remove from the dining room to drink mint tea or coffee.
Wait at least a half-hour from the end of the meal before you take you leave;
compliment the cook again, and extend your thanks
NATIVE
FOODS
Egyptian food reflects the country's melting-pot history; native cooks using
local ingredients have modified Greek, Turkish, Lebanese, Palestinian, and
Syrian traditions to suit Egyptian budgets, customs, and tastes. The dishes are
simple; made with naturally ripened fruits and vegetables and seasoned with
fresh spices, they're good and hearty. Food in the south, closely linked to
North African cuisine, is more zesty than that found in the north, but neither
is especially hot. The best cooking is often found in the smaller towns.
Although Egyptian cooking can be bland and oily when poorly done, most of the
cuisine is delicious. Enjoy!
Bread
The mainstay of Egyptian diets, aysh (bread) comes in several forms. The
most common is a pita type made either with refined white flour called aysh
shami, or with coarse, whole wheat, aysh baladi. Stuffed with any of several
fillings, it becomes the Egyptian sandwich. Aysh shams is bread made from
leavened dough allowed to rise in the sun, while plain aysh comes in long,
skinny, French-style loaves. If you find yourself faced with hard, dry aysh, do
like the Egyptians: soften it in water, and if you have a fire available, warm
it over the open flame.
Beans
Along with aysh, the native bean supplies most of Egypt's people with their
daily rations. Ful can be cooked several ways: in ful midamess, the whole beans
are boiled, with vegetables if desired, and then mashed with onions, tomatoes,
and spices. This mixture is often served with an egg for breakfast, without the
egg for other meals . A similar sauce, cooked down into a paste and stuffed
into aysh baladi, is the filling for the sandwiches sold on the street.
Alternatively, ful beans are soaked, minced, mixed with spices, formed into
patties (called ta'miyya in Cairo and falaafil in Alexandria), and deep-fried.
These patties, garnished with tomatoes, lettuce, and tihina sauce, are stuffed
into aysh and sold on the street.
Molokhiyya
A leafy, green, summer vegetable, molokhiyya is distinctively Egyptian, and
locals will proudly serve you their traditional thick soup made from it. The
chopped leaves are generally stewed in chicken stock, and served with or
without pieces of chicken, rabbit, or lamb. This soup can also be served with
crushed bread or over rice. If you're served it straight, it's polite to dunk
your aysh.
Mezze These small dishes of various
forms are usually served with drinks. Those resembling dips are made with
tihina, an oil paste of sesame seeds. Tihina mixed with oil and seasoned with
garlic or chili and lemon can be served alone, but when combined with mashed
eggplant and served as a dip or sauce for salads, its called baba-ghanoug. In
Alexandria, chickpeas are added to the tihina to make hummus bi tihina. Tihina
also forms the base for many general-purpose sauces served with fish and meats
and replaces mayonnaise on Egyptian sandwiches. Turshi includes a variety of
vegetables soaked in spicy brine--it's always good with beer.
Soups
And Salads
In addition to molokhiyya, the Egyptians make a variety of meat (lahhma),
vegetable (khudaar), and fish (samak) soups known collectively as shurbah, and
all are delicious. Salads (salata) can be made of greens, tomatoes, potatoes,
or eggs, as well as with beans and yogurt. Western-type salad bars have come
into vogue in larger cities, and here, for a few pounds, you can make a whole
meal of the fresh produce. Yogurt (laban zabadi) is fresh and unflavored; you
can sweeten if you wish with honey, jams, preserves, or mint. It rests easy on
an upset stomach.
Main Courses Rice and bread form the
bulk of Egyptian main courses, which may be served either as lunch or dinner.
For most Egyptians, meat is a luxury used in small amounts, cooked with
vegetables, and served with or over rice, but meat dishes comprise most
restaurant fare.
Torly, a mixed-vegetable casserole
or stew, is usually made with lamb, or occasionally with beef, onions,
potatoes, beans, and peas. To make Egyptian-style kebab, cooks season chunks of
lamb in onion, marjoram, and lemon juice and then roast them on a spit over an
open fire. Kufta is ground lamb flavored with spices and onions which is rolled
into long narrow "meatballs" and roasted like kebab, with which it's often
served. Pork is considered unclean by Muslims, but is readily available, as is
beef. Although native chickens (firaakh) are often scrawny and tough, imported
fowl are plump, tender, and tasty. You can order grilled chicken (firaakh
mashwi) in a restaurant or buy one already cooked at the street-side
rotisseries and fix your own meal. Hamaam (pigeons) are raised throughout
Egypt, and when stuffed with seasoned rice and grilled, constitute a national
delicacy. They are small, so you will need to order several; the best are
usually served in small, local restaurants where you may even have to give the
cook a day's notice (a good sign), but beware--hamaam are occasionally served
with their heads buried in the stuffing.
Egyptians serve both freshwater and
seagoing fish under the general term of samak. The best fish seem to be near
the coasts (ocean variety) or in Aswan, where they are caught from Lake Nasser.
As well as the common bass and sole, try gambari (shrimp), calamari (squid),
gandofli (scallops), and ti'baan (eel). The latter, a white meat with a
delicate salmon flavoring, can be bought on the street already deep-fried.
Vegetables
Ruzz (rice) is often varied by cooking it with nuts, onions, vegetables, or
small amounts of meat. Bataatis (potatoes) are usually fried but can also be
boiled or stuffed. Egyptians stuff green vegetables with mixtures of rice; wara'
enab, for example, is made form boiled grape leaves filled
filled with small amounts of spiced
rice with or without ground meat. Westerners often know them by the Greek name
of dolmadas or dolmas, but beware ordering them by that name; in Egypt, doma
refers to a mixture of stuffed vegetables.
Cheese
Native cheese (gibna) comes in two varieties: gibna beida, similar to feta, and
gibna rumy, a sharp, hard, pale yellow cheese. These are the ones normally used
in salads and sandwiches, but gouda, cheddar, bleu, and other Western types are
becoming available. Mish is a spiced, dry cheese made into a paste and served as
an hors d'oeuvre.
Fruit
In Egypt a multitude of fresh fruits are available year-round, but since all are
tree- or vine-ripened, only those in season appear in suqs (markets) or on
vendors' stands. In the winter, mohz (bananas), balah (dates), and burtu'aan
(any of several varieties of oranges) appear. Special treats are burtu'aan
bedammoh (pink oranges), whose skin looks like most oranges, but their pulp is
red and sweet. The Egyptian summer is blessed with battiikh (melon), khukh
(peach), berkuk (plum), and 'anub (grapes). Tin shawki is a cactus fruit that
appears in August or September.
Nuts
Goz (nuts) and mohamas (dried seeds) are popular snack foods in Egypt, and
vendors can be found selling them nearly anywhere. All are tasty; try bundok
(hazelnuts), loz (almonds), or fuzdo (pistachios). If you like peanuts, the ful
sudani are especially tasty in Aswan. Desserts Egyptian desserts of pastry or
puddings are usually drenched in honey syrup. Baklava (filo dough, honey, and
nuts) is one of the less sweet; fatir are pancakes stuffed with everything from
eggs to apricots; and basbousa, quite sweet, is made of semolina pastry soaked
in honey and topped with hazelnuts. Umm ali, a delight named for Mamluk queen,
is raisin cake soaked in milk and served hot. Kanafa is a dish of batter
"strings" fried on a hot grill and stuffed with nuts, meats, or sweets.
Egyptian rice pudding is called mahallabiyya and is served topped with
pistachios. French-style pastries are called gatoux. Good chocolate candies are
likewise difficult to find, though Western-style candy bars are beginning to
make their appearance. The Egyptian ice cream runs closer to ice milk or
sherbet than cream. Most restaurants and many homes serve fresh fruits for
desserts, and it makes a perfect, light conclusion to most meals.
Shopping For Food
The easiest way to stretch your food budget is to patronize the local stands and
suqs, buying fresh fruit and vegetables you can eat raw. The prices are
normally posted in Arabic and are fixed. Since there is no bargaining involved,
you can just point to what you want, indicate how many or how much, and hold
out your money; most vendors and small storekeepers are scrupulously honest.
Small, local grocery stores occupy nearly every street corner and sell canned
goods, preserves, bread, cheese, and soda pop as well as staples at government
fixed prices. If the local grocery doesn't stock beer, there is probably a
store nearby that does; ask. Here or at the brewery you can buy Stella by the
case. Bakeries supply various types of bread and pastries at fixed prices.
DRINKS
Coffee Developed and popularized in the Middle East, the drinking of ahwa
(coffee) remains a national tradition, and local coffeehouses still cater to
men who come to drink coffee, discuss politics, play tawla (backgammon), listen
to "Oriental" (Egyptian) music, and smoke the shiisha (water pipe). Although
the traditional poetry and high-powered politics have migrated to fancy homes
and offices, the coffee remains. You will also be offered the thick, strong, but
tasty brew in homes, offices, and bazaar shops. Turkish coffee is made from
finely powdered beans brewed in a small pot. As the water just begins to boil,
the grounds float to the surface in a dark foam; the ahwa is brought to you
still in the pot and poured into a demitasse. The heavier grounds sink to the
bottom of the cup and the lighter ones form a foam on the top, the mark of a
perfectly brewed cup. Sip carefully to avoid the grounds in the bottom of the
cup. (If you don't like the foam, you can blow it aside under the guise of
cooling your drink.) Although Turkish coffee has a reputation for being tart,
its actual flavor depends on the mix of beans used in the grind; the larger the
percentage of Arabica, the sweeter and more chocolate flavor. Ahwa comes in
several versions: ahwa sada is black, ahwa ariha is lightly sweetened with
sugar, ahwa mazboot is moderately sweetened, and ahwaziyada is very sweet. You
must specify the amount of sugar at the time you order, for it's sweetened in
the pot. Most people order mazboot, which cuts the tartness; ahwa is never
served with cream. Most hotel and restaurant breakfasts include strong French
coffee usually called Nescafe; you may have to specially order it with sugar (bil
sukkar) or milk (bil laban).
Tea And Other Hot Drinks
Egyptians adopted the custom of formal afternoon tea from the native Arabians,
and it's served with milk, lemon, and sugar on the side. The domestic or
Bedouin version of shay is boiled rather than steeped and is often saturated
with sugar; this strong tea is served in glasses. A refreshing change from
after-dinner coffee is shay bil na'na' or mint tea.; dried mint is mixed with
tea leaves and the mixture is brewed like regular tea . Kakoow bil laban (hot
chocolate) is available during the winter, as is Sahlab, a thick liquid that
tastes like a cross between Ovaltine and oatmeal. Karkaday, a clear, bright
red, native drink especially popular in the south, is made by steeping dried
hibiscus flowers, sweetened to taste, and served either hot or cold; the locals
claim this delicious drink calms the nerves.
Cold Drinks
Bottled water (mayya ma'daniyya) is available in all areas frequented by
tourists; both large and small bottles are sold on the street and from ice
buckets at most of the antiquities sites. Be sure the cap is sealed. Mayya
shurb or mayya ahday (drinking water) is safe in most metropolitan areas. A
delectable treat in Egypt are the fresh fruit juices (asiir) available at small
stalls throughout Egypt. The shopkeepers blend the whole fruit and small
amounts of ice and sugar water and then strain this mash into your glass--the
resulting drinks have been described as ambrosia. Juices, which are made from
fruits in season, include farawla (strawberry), manga (mango), mohz (banana),and
burtu'aan (orange) and are especially welcome in hot weather. In addition to
pure fruit juices, you can also get them made of vegetables such as khiyar
(cucumber), tamaatim (tomato), and gazar (carrot). For a new experience,
experiment with some of their combination drinks: nuss wa nuss (carrot and
orange), an unexpectedly delightful concoction, or mohz bi-laban, a blend of
bananas and milk; an Egyptian milkshake. Asiir lamoon, common throughout Egypt,
is a strong, sweet version of lemonade. In the past few years canned and
packaged juices have become common, but their flavor cannot compare with the
freshly made varieties. Western soft drinks are ubiquitous in Egypt, but most
are domestically bottled. You can find Schweppes, Fanta, Seven-Up, Coke, and
Pepsi; club soda is also available, but Collins mix is nearly nonexistent. If
you buy from street-side vendors, you're expected to drink the soda right there
and return the bottle; if you want to take a bottle with you, you'll have to pay
for it.
Alcoholic Drinks
Although devout Muslims refrain from drinking alcohol, beer, wine, and hard
liquor are available in bars, restaurants, and some grocery shops. Imported
beer and wine are the most expensive, but the local beer called Stella is a
light lager that is quite good, provided it has not sat in the sun too long. It
comes in large (about 20 oz.) bottles and runs about LE4-5. Stella Export,
available in bars and restaurants, is more expensive (LE4), comes in smaller
bottles, and is stronger--closer in alcohol content to most Western beers.
Marzen, a dark, bock beer, appears briefly during the spring; Aswanli is the
dark beer made in Aswan.
Brandy is drinkable only when
diluted, and the local rum is not much better. However, zibib, the Egyptian
version of Greek ouzo or Mexican anasato, is good either on the rocks or
diluted with water (which turns it milky) as a before-dinner cocktail. Other
hard liquors are imported and therefore are limited (the ports at Suez and
Alexandria seem to have the widest variety) and expensive. If you drink
regularly, plan on stocking up at a duty-free store before you enter Egypt.
What to Wear
Egypt
is a conservative country and visitors should respect this attitude.
No topless or nude bathing is permitted. On the
practical side, leave your synthetics at home as they will prove to be too hot
in summer and not warm enough in winter - bring materials that breathe. It is
advisable to wear cotton in summer as the heat can be like a furnace. In winter
wear layers that can be taken off during the heat of the day and put back on
for cool evenings. Wear loose and flowing garments, which are not only modest,
but practical in a hot climate. Have you ever wondered why the Bedouin wear
layers of flowing robes? Why they cover their heads and the back of their
necks? Centuries of living in desert climates have taught them that loose
garments keep one cooler and layered garments allow wind to enter and
circulate, creating a natural ventilation system. Protecting the head and neck
from loss of moisture
prevents heat stroke.
Bring comfortable shoes. You will be
doing a lot of walking and temple floors are far from even. In summer, wear a
hat to protect yourself from the heat of the Egyptian sun.
What to Bring
Above all travel light. Get wheels for your luggage and leave heavy items at
home. If you don’t bring a camera you will be sorry. Sunglasses are a must as
the sun is very strong in Egypt.
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